Saru Dornei Village, Suceava County
Whether matured or fresh, cheese production is an art form. As with all crafts, many practitioners have dedicated their careers to perfecting it, while others, passionate about their work, want to enjoy and pass on their vocation to future generations. Both for local cheese, and varieties from traditional cheese-making countries, terroir is an important factor in recipes.
Diana and Cristian Taranu, from Tararu Dornei, near Vatra Dornei, specialize in matured Swiss cheeses, made with skill and passion, under the Tinutul Calimanilor (Calimanilor Land) brand.
Production began in summer 2019, in a building next to the family house especially constructed for the production of matured cheeses, respecting traditional local methods. It processes 400 litres of cow's milk a day, provided by local residents. The couple hope to double production.
Three types of cheese are produced at Ținutul Călimanilor, based on the Emmental, Raclette and Gruyere recipes. “The Swiss” has been made in the Vatra Dornei area of Bucovina for almost 200 years, with the locals considering it a traditional product of the region. The Dornelor Basin is rich in iron and manganese ore, similar to Switzerland’s Jura Mountains. The locals called it Svaiter (the Swiss Emmentaller) which is how it got its name.
“The Swiss” produced at Tinutul Călimanilor is made from unpasteurized cow's milk, aged for at least 90 days.
Brânza Măieriș (Măieriș Cheese), named after a mountain in Călimani, is based on the Raclette recipe and enjoyed throughout Romania, although it is not served the Swiss way, melted and drizzled over pieces of toast or baked potatoes.
During our visit to the producer, we were fortunate enough to taste another specialty, brânza Lucaciu (Lucaciu cheese), which also takes its name from a mountain in Călimani. Based on the Gruyere recipe, it will be commercially launched soon.
During maturation, the cheeses are turned over each day and washed with brine. At the end, a wheel weighs about 30 kg.
When serving “the Swiss”, pair it with dry whites such as Riesling or Gewurztraminer, or dry reds like Pinot Noir, Riesling or Zinfandel.
If you’re serving Măieriș cheese for tasting, dry whites from Riesling and reds from Pinot Noir are good choices.
“The Swiss” can be bought online from Nord Natural, and from Bucharest at Zimbria Băneasa, Magazinul lui Baciu and Băcănia Ancuței. The other products are awaiting launch, but can be ordered by phone from the manufacturer.
Cheesemaker contact: +40 729 064 115
Alina Iancu, 25/09/2019
GOOD TO KNOW
Cheese is a delicious product, which comes in an array of types, and can be constantly rediscovered. To enjoy it at its best, there are a few basic rules: Don’t try to taste too many different cheeses. Experts recommend five or six types in one sitting. Tasting should take place at...
Cheese plays an important role in almost all the cuisines of the world. It’s a complex food, but also a personal experience. For optimum tasting, there are a few basic rules: Don’t try to taste too many different cheeses. Experts recommend five or six types in one sitting....